Czechia · Cycling

Grandmother's Valley by Bike: from Krabčice to Ratibořice

Before you start reading, here is the gist
  • We cycled from Krabčice near Česká Skalice to Babiččino údolí (Grandmother's Valley) and Ratibořice chateau: 31.6 km (20 miles) including a loop around the valley, 432 m of climbing and 3 h 44 min of moving time.
  • Ratibořice has a state chateau and the monument to Grandmother with her grandchildren, and the Babiččino údolí educational trail starts here.
  • A good base for the trip is the Two Fingers glamping in Krabčice.
Where to stay: Two Fingers
  • Glamping Two Fingers, Krabčice - Caravans, cabins and treetop lookouts in the forest near Česká Skalice, where I set off by bike. Details in the article about Two Fingers.
Read about Two Fingers →

From the Two Fingers glamping in Krabčice we set off by bike on Saturday 6 April 2024 to Grandmother's Valley (Babiččino údolí, named after the classic Czech novel The Grandmother by Božena Němcová). According to the signposts it is about 11 kilometres (7 miles) one way from Krabčice, and with a walk through the valley and stops we stretched the whole trip to 31.6 km (19.6 miles). It was spring, everything was starting to turn green and the sun shone all day.

A man in a helmet and glasses taking a selfie under a blue sign saying Střezimiřice and yellow cycle signposts reading Ratibořice 8, Heřmanice 6, Krabčice 3
The signpost in Střezimiřice.
A man on a road bike by a baroque statue of a saint on a sandstone plinth and a bench in a meadow under a blue sky
By the statue on the way to Ratibořice.

How many kilometres is it and what is the climbing?

  • 31.61 km (19.6 miles) in total from Krabčice and back, including a detour through the valley
  • 432 m climbed
  • 3 h 44 min of pure time on the bike, average 8.4 km/h
  • 6 h 26 min the whole trip including stops for a walk, food and beer (start 11:32, finish 17:58)

The data come from an Apple Watch. From the signpost in Střezimiřice it is eight kilometres to Ratibořice and three to Krabčice.

Grandmother's Valley: A ride recorded on a watch: 31.61 km, 432 m of climbing, time 3:43:47, average 8.4 km/h
The record from the watch.

What is the route from Krabčice to Grandmother's Valley?

From Krabčice you ride through Střezimiřice along cycle route 4098 towards Ratibořice. On the way you pass fields, scattered houses and, by the road, a baroque statue of a saint with a bench that is handy for a short break. At the signposts by the park the Grandmother's Valley educational trail then continues.

What will you see in Ratibořice and the valley?

The destination is Ratibořice State Chateau, run by the National Heritage Institute. According to the available information, in the 19th century the chateau belonged to Princess Catherine Wilhelmine of Sagan, who became the model for the Princess in Božena Němcová's The Grandmother. The chateau is visited on a guided tour, and for admission and opening hours see the chateau's official website.

In the park stands the monument to the Grandmother with her grandchildren, one of the most sought-after stops. From Česká Skalice the Grandmother's Valley educational trail leads here, about 7.5 km (4.7 miles) long: it passes Staré Bělidlo (the Old Bleachery), Rudr's Mill and Viktorka's Weir and ends at the Rýzmburk gazebo.

Grandmother's Valley: A ticket for Ratibořice State Chateau in front of the chateau facade with a green roof and a blue sky
A ticket for Ratibořice Chateau.
The monument to the Grandmother with her grandchildren and a dog in the park in Ratibořice under blossoming trees
The monument to the Grandmother with her grandchildren.
White houses with a mill race in a valley under a blue sky
Houses and a mill race in the valley.
A foaming weir on a river with a stone dam and trees under a blue sky
A weir on the river.

What bike and how to get there?

I rode a road bike and the route suited me. If you want to mix it up, you can take a gravel bike and use the paths along the river. You can get to Krabčice without a car too: by train to Jaroměř and then by bus, which goes into the village about five times a day.

What else is in the area?

  • Česká Skalice with Barunka's School and the Božena Němcová Museum
  • Staré Bělidlo and Viktorka's Weir on the educational trail
  • Kuks, Jaroměř and the Josefov fortress (about seven kilometres from Krabčice, 4.3 miles)
  • The Adršpach-Teplice Rocks and the Broumov region
Lukáš Dobrovolný

Lukáš Dobrovolný

Traveller, content creator and online marketer

Over 17 years on the road, but still with one foot in Czechia. I write about road trips, mountain hikes, cycling trips, Amazing Places and my favourite food.

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